First Week of 2020 Summer Travel to and in Portugal
January 2020, beginning to mid-January, while finishing up our month long visit to Portugal, we decided we would come back, maybe the first of May 2020, to summer in Portugal for an extended stay. We had arrived in Lisbon, Lisboa, Portugal, early December 2019 to see if there was any chance we would enjoy the country. As we traveled around from Lisboa to central Portugal to Porto and back on down to Lisboa we really enjoyed everything about Portugal.
Let’s Do It!
So, on our flight back we decided to do it, and starting late January, the start of February, we pulled the trigger to go for it. Even though you all know what proceeded to happen through the next few months, we continued with all the planning and coordination.
Through FB Market Place, selling our furnishings, household goods, the Suburban (Craigslist), and eventually, timing wise, the KIA to an estate sale service who managed to sell most of our things amid COVID-19 in Scottsdale, Arizona. Although the estate sale company took 35% commission, I was happy to be rid of most of my belongings. We got some money from the sale, and our deposit back on our 2 bedroom condo rental. As it turned out, with all going on, we stayed through May, and it was very liberating to walk thru the clean and empty condo where we had spent the last 6 years, 3 years longer than we originally planned, all for good reasons.
May was a record breaker, providing unusual heat and more heat as it neared 110 degrees several days and better than 105 the day of our final walkthrough. June was not panning out to be pretty! Our condo was an older model from the 80’s with original A/C units that were barely functional. One of the many reasons I was only too happy to say goodbye to Phoenix summers!
Photo by Scott…our little beach in Estoril, near Cascais
Onward…
We had a slight delay from our original departure of 6/1/2020 to 6/4/2020 due to flight cancellation. Due to the canceled flight and our arrangement of being out of our home, we had to then get a hotel room in Phoenix for 2 weeks with all of our luggage. The advertised hotel pool, fitness center, and breakfast service had been suspended due to COVID-19, yet no price break for those not being available…thanks y’all. I am an active, social creature and having all of these liberties taken away for months was wearing on me as much as the desert heat!
We had a good flight departure time around 7 am from Phoenix Sky Harbor on 6/4, which happens to be my birthday…woohoo!! We had a 2-day journey or 40 hours of travel time from Phoenix to Portugal, of course including layovers, overnight in London which was cool, and a good break. Our original fare was $1,200 for 2 one-way tickets, around 20 hours of travel time. The new flight was 40 hours of travel at $2,200! We are in the process of getting some reimbursement thru the airline and our travel/health insurance. That process can take many weeks. At any rate, we were on our way to start our summer journey, exploration in Portugal!
Sky Harbor to LAX to Heathrow…
Our flight started from Phoenix to LAX, then onto London. This was approximately 10 hours and I thought would be relatively comfortable because flights were going out ½ full or not at all as was the case with our cancelled TAP flight due to low census. Unfortunately, our flight was jam packed full of travelers. Because there are much fewer flights scheduled, our flight picked up 100 travelers from New Zealand. So much for social distancing!! Not only were we on a sold-out flight, but we were required to stay in our seats for the entire flight…so as to “social distance”…whatever. Imagine wearing a mask for 10 hours packed like sardines and not being allowed to stretch your legs! This was an overnight flight, so an added bonus for my insomnia. Still, I was in good spirits because we were finally realizing our months of hard work, research, planning and saving to afford the move and travel!
London
We landed in London, retrieved our bags and headed to our Holiday Inn Express. We were allowed a hotel stay/transition even though the UK is a Level 2. I found the rate very reasonable at $61 Euros with a grab and go breakfast. It was heaven to take a shower and pass out on the bed for a few hours like an actual human being. Scott and I decided to take an Uber to Westminster for a quick bite and look around. Unlike visiting Europe in the winter with colder weather and shorter day light hours, summer is sunny and sunset at the first week in June is 9:15 pm. London seemed eerie to me because few people were out on the streets and virtually all shops and pubs were closed. We managed to find a Polish cafe that was open for take away. No table outside for eating either, so we got our food, what turned out to be delicious btw…thanks so much guys…and took an Uber back to the hotel.
Westminster Abbey, and all the architectural detail is…what word best describes it…inconceivable!
Photo by Scott
The Worst
We got up about 4 a.m. the next morning and took the Uber to Heathrow then onto Lisbon on our 2nd British Airways flight. This is when we were required to go thru customs. Heathrow…it was the worst…over 2 hours to go thru customs as the lines were very long, and the officials were checking most travelers. I have traveled a fair amount in my time and even worked as a flight attendant for 1.5 years, so I know the drill. We had all the proper documents and paper copies. Both Scott and I were given body searches as well as going thru all our luggage including toiletries and medications. The custom agents just threw our stuff in a pile, and we had to hastily re-pack everything. They confiscated several of Scott’s things, but we didn’t make a fuss because we knew those things are replaceable. We barely made our connection within just 5-10 minutes of take off!
No, This was the Worst
When we arrived in Lisbon, we were greeted with more rude experience. Customs agents are typically with little emotion, just the facts ma’am, sort of way. But this agent just went off, and unlike any of the other agents and how they treated passengers. In more attack mode, then helpful advice, he questioned why we were traveling now? Odd question as Portugal was a Level 1. He goes on to say, we must self-quarantine for 2 weeks, and there will be no travel around the country of Portugal or to Spain. Borders are closed! You must be out in 90 days and cannot return for 90 days! His actions were more like he was prodding hard to get a bad response from us, and as Joanie mentioned to me later, it really kind of gave Joanie a bad, hurtful feeling, we both shrugged it off. Again, we agreed and stayed quiet and handed over our passports and documents. We’ve traveled around, and he gets the worst ribbon. Interesting that we had to dole out a couple of worsts…Heathrow and this agent.
Portugal…finally
Anyway, with all that done, and looking back now, the past 40 hours from Phoenix to Lisbon, the past 4 months of planning, coordination, virus uncertainties, we felt fortunate to get where we were! So, it’s 11 a.m. Saturday, big thankful breath, we took an Uber for about 30 minutes to the beach town of Cascais. This is a nice area of shops, restaurants with beaches and boardwalks that go on for miles along the Atlantic Coast. Cascais is an area that was suggested as a great alternative to downtown Lisbon with a mix of locals and expats and only 30 minute train ride to the city. We got a nice, a spacious Airbnb just five minute stroll to the beach! I have been in communication with our host Jose during the COVID-19 crisis as well as checking the CDC and the State Department for updates on travel to Portugal. Jose is a native of Portugal and manages around 5 Airbnb rentals. I was well aware that some of the information the Portuguese custom agent was spewing was false and just scare tactic.
That Saturday evening, which we’ll get into a bit more in another blog, we celebrated our birthdays at a good seafood restaurant in Cascais.
Below is our little beach, one of many beaches in walking distance…clear, blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean, blue skies, beautiful weather…finally. Photo by Scott
Already Better…
So again, we made it thru customs in Lisbon and gathered our bags then headed for the street to wait for our large SUV via Uber. The Uber rides in general are much more reasonable than the USA. We have found prices have gone up in the Phoenix area and the wait time has doubled or tripled as there are fewer drivers. In Lisbon, the drivers arrive within 5 minutes and a 10-15 minute ride is about 4 Euros. The ride from the airport was more because it was about 35 minutes and we had 9 pieces of luggage, so we needed a large SUV for transport. The cost was around 35 Euros, so definitely affordable.
Looks like alot…and it is
I know you may be thinking why on earth do two people have 9 pieces of luggage? First of all, this is all of our possessions from our move, and 2nd, we are traveling for 5 months. And thirdly, as we are now in the business of travel, etc., we have more equipment to bring for our Ripples and Ripples business and website operating the travel and health & wellness blogs and videos, design blogs, photography, videos, and the online store. We run with a small, 7”x7”, but powerful desktop computer and 24” monitor, lighting and microphones, as well as the usual laptops and I-pads, cell phones, cords, chargers and converters. Electronics are not only expensive in Europe, but they are not near the quality we are used to in the USA. So, we have a couple of backups in case one or 2 break.
Joanie and Scott are here…, but seriously, I’m searching for a humorous photo with a lot of luggage as if these were all ours. I then realized this was a recent article someone wrote about lost luggage at Heathrow…yes, our new most favorite worst airport in the world. Photo by Steve Bagness/Rex.
Also, shipping costs from the USA is costly. Not only are shipping costs very expensive, but shipping times are a joke. Last winter it took 6 weeks to receive a small liquid supplement from the USA to Portugal. The item was hung up in customs and I paid an additional expense to get it released and delivered. Having things stuck at customs is common occurrence in Portugal. We intend to lessen our luggage during our time here and are now looking into small space rental if we decide we will return on a long-term basis.
Estoril/Cascais, west of Lisboa
Our Airbnb house rental is a perfect base for our first month in Portugal. It is a spacious 1-2 bedroom, sleeps 5-6, (2nd bed is in the front seating area—not an actual bedroom). There is a large entry courtyard, with a banana tree with a couple clusters of bananas, and large grape vines trained and shaped to provide overhead shade with young green grapes hanging. It is a nice shaded space with flowers and grapevines that can be used to drink coffee or sip wine. I am writing this blog in the courtyard area. Of course, Scott had added his design touches to make the space even more enjoyable from morning through evening.
The front seating area/living room has a flat screen TV and a pullout trundle bed. The 2 bathrooms have lovely cobalt tiles and forest green tiles with a huge shower, toilet and sink. The kitchen area is large with a large dining room equipped with stove, oven, large fridge, microwave, dishwasher and clothes washer. There is no dryer as is customary in Europe, clothes are dried on the clothesline or clothes rack. In summer, clothes dry in a day. The bedroom is a queen sized bed with closet a 2nd bathroom with sink, toilet, and large green tile shower. The water temperature is set very hot…too hot, and the water pressure is strong!
The overall feel of this place is light and sunny with room to relax! There is street noise with the traffic in the front courtyard, but at night the traffic slows and you can enjoy relative quiet with the windows open to enjoy the ocean breeze! This is coming from a person who is a light sleeper and suffers from years of insomnia.
We are situated in an area called Estoril/Cascais located on the Atlantic Ocean approximately 30 minute train ride to Lisbon. The beauty of this particular neighborhood is the laid-back Portuguese vibe a mere 5 minute stroll to the beach! The weather is mid-70’s (20-25 Celcius), sunny, some 30-50% humidity. The beaches in this area are soft sand with small coves or bays ideal for swimming or soaking your feet. Although the water temperature is cold, mid-60’s, similar to San Diego/Mission Bay area, you get used to it in a few minutes, and it feels nice after a long walk on the beach!
Being our first summer here, we’re not sure if this is typical, but the water is clear making snorkeling fun with many varieties of smaller fish to view 25, 30 meters out. The water and surf has been pretty calm, so as to not stir up sand. The beach/board walk stretches for miles and miles. We were not able to walk the entire distance, so I am uncertain how far it can be taken by foot.
Ice Cream and Gelado…
The Estoril/Cascais area has restaurants, cafes, bars, ice cream shops, and various merchant shops dot the coast. While many places remain closed during COVID-19, many places are open and we feel very fortunate to be traveling now and during a time when there may be 2-3 times the number of people in a regular summer season. This means no long lines or waiting hours to get a table! I enjoy seeing small family run shops and bars rather than the massive hotel chains and big box stores so common in the USA! When I stroll into an Estoril/Cascais store, I am greeted with lovely local music and a Portuguese smile rather than loud jarring music or 24 hour news on the TV. It is heavenly to unplug from the nonstop social media and news world.
Santini gelado and cone; lemon and raspberry gelado with vanilla ice cream.
Photo by Scott
Estoril/Cascais
The Estoril/Cascais area is easy to walk and has gentle hills versus the more steep streets of Lisbon. There is a gentle slope or 1-2 staircase from street level leading down to the beach. The beaches are clean and often have public toilets nearby with trash cans and recycle bins.
Scott and I both noticed the increase of graffiti in the Lisbon area compared to when we were here last winter in 2019. My guess is the increase is related to the frustration of COVID-19. Other than the graffiti, the Lisbon area is a beautiful city that is a safe, clean, historic, romantic and welcoming to travelers from all over the world!
Lots of Festivals…
Typically, in summertime, it is great to partake in local festivals and local cuisine including fresh fish. Unfortunately, the festivals and large gatherings have been put on hold. But, the seafood at the local restaurants and markets are in season and available at affordable prices. We are in Lisbon during the time of the Sardine Festival, in mid-June. Neither of us had fresh sardines in the past, so we tried them at a restaurant in Lisbon. While the sardines are fresh and simply prepared, grilled to a nice, nice flavor, we found the very small bones difficult to navigate. Being experienced with the small bones of Trout, we asked 2 waiters if it was safe just to chew the very fine bones and swallow them rather than trying the impossible task of de-boning the sardines, but this was discouraged. Apparently, the bones are indigestible and may get caught in your GI tract, at least for those with little experience. Perhaps there is an easier way to de-bone the sardines or they may be prepared differently at other restaurants? At any rate, I would not try this style of sardine again.
Fresh sardines out of the Atlantic Ocean today, during Festival of the Sardines in Lisboa, Portugal. Photo by Scott.
There are so many other fresh fish to try in Portugal! I highly recommend fresh octopus. It is soft, flavorful and affordable, such a far cry from the rubbery bland type offered in the USA. Mussels and tiger prawns are equally tasty and fairly priced. As always, Scott started with a soup, (if the soup is not delicious, the rest of the meal???) a fresh fish soup in a light tomato base with a mix of white fish that was light and inexpensive.
Regional wine is another favorite treat of locals and travelers alike. Although I have tried the red and white varieties of Portuguese wine, I am not a good judge because I do not care for wine in general. However, Scott is a bit more of the connoisseur and supporter of local wines and beers at good prices! You can easily purchase a good regional wine for 5-8 Euros. Port wine is a bit sweeter like a desert wine. Vinho Verde, green grapes, is a local hybrid of white wine 75% and 25% sparkling wine. It is light and refreshing on a hot summer day.
I love all the great deserts from egg custard tarts, pasteries, delicious cakes and local gelado and ice cream. Our Airbnb is near the famous Santini ice cream parlor established here in the late 1940’s with ice cream and gelado to die for! There is always a line outside the shop, but it moves quickly and it is worth the wait!
Dinner at Marisco’s in Cascais, west of Lisbon, for our birthday’s, and to arriving in Portugal through it all!
Photo by Scott
There are several lines of commuting available throughout Lisboa connecting the various Bairros, and the train station is an easy 5 minute walk from our door, as we can take it to the heart of Lisbon near Barrio Alto in about 35 minutes. The trains run every 15-20 minutes from 6am until 1 am or so. They are clean, safe and inexpensive. We purchased 10 rides for 20 Euros. It is a debit-type card that can be replenished and is good for 1 year. I will do a series on local and regional types of travel and transportation since COVID-19. Another blog post we’ll share soon is our Vespa like scooter ride for the day to check out beaches in Cascais and up the western coast of the Lisboa region and into the mountains to Sintra, so stay tuned! Adeus, Ciao…