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Portuguese Christmas Traditions

We have taken a housesitting assignment in central Portugal during Christmas and New Year’s.  We noticed several differences in the way that the Portuguese celebrate Christmas versus United States.  We arrived in Lisbon, Portugal which is the capital and the largest city in the Country.  We were in Lisbon for five days and did a little bit of sightseeing although we were quite jet-lagged and were on the opposite schedule!  As we walked around Lisbon in the downtown area specifically an area called Barrio Alto, we noticed there were some lights and decorations some stores promoting Christmas, but not nearly to the degree that you would see in a major city in United States.  This is refreshing to me, because I feel like Christmas has become too commercial.  We’ve lost the true meaning of the season in the United States.

Christmas Fesitivities

In Lisbon, street vendors sell roasted chestnuts over an open fire grate.  It was nice to smell smoking chestnuts while walking around the city.  Christmas lights are displayed but in a more low-key manner.  Christmas lights are displayed in the city center area. We got some wonderful pictures and video of lights in the shape of a Christmas tree, and a huge lighted ornament.  Musicians were performing in the downtown area city streets  that were blocked off so pedestrians could walk the area.  Music from all genres could be heard: alternative, hip-hop even classical Mozart being played in the narrow cobblestone streets.  Lisbon has many churches and it seems there is a church on almost every block! One of the churches we noticed in our area had a lovely huge nativity scene in front of the church.

Christmas Traditions

In central Portugal, Oliveira do Hospital is a small village of about 30,000 a residents.  Scott and I were doing a housesit caring for Bella and Dottie, sister cats, and Suki, a one-year old dog, and the stone farmhouse in a rural setting while the owner returned to the UK to visit family during the holidays.  This area consists of old stone houses, barns and walls, many built in the early to mid 1900’s, made from the native granite boulders and stone of the area.  Most of the homes are not decorated on the exterior so only a few Christmas lights are seen.  The Portuguese celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve. 

Family and friends gather for a traditional Portuguese Christmas Eve dinner of salted cod, octopus or lamb.  Several other dishes are served including potatoes, bread and various desserts.  One desert that may be served is a pudding soaked in Portwine.  Another traditional dessert is King’s cake similar to a fruitcake.  A small toy is placed somewhere in the cake.  The person who discovers the toy in their slice is said to have a year full of good health and prosperity!  The Portuguese attend midnight mass which is called “Rooster Mass” possibly because of its early morning hour.  Family and friends will open gifts Christmas Eve after midnight mass.  Usually only a few gifts are exchanged rather than many extravagant gifts as is common in the American culture.  Santa Claus is known as Father Christmas called Papai Noel.  The term Merry Christmas we heard both Feliz Natal or Boa Natal depending on the region of Portugal.

Christmas day in Portugal is a time to rest and recuperate after Christmas Eve festivities.  All the presents have been opened parties and gatherings have ended.  This is a time to relax with your own family and enjoy leftovers from Christmas eve dinner.